At the Crossroads
There is a stirring in my soul when I make my way down south. The land of my
ancestors. To me, it is a place of legend and lore, a place where Pentecostal snake
handlers and faith healers, will tread the same ground as voodoo and hoodoo
practitioners, what we would call “Old Time Religion”, and a place where Will O’ the
Wisps and demons roamed free and you can even meet the devil…at the crossroads. I
want to tell you a folktale, or perhaps it’s more?
Robert Johnson was an unknown in the eyes of musicians that played the juke joints
of the Delta. According to acclaimed blues man Son House, he heard Johnson play in
1930 in Robbinsville, MS. He related how Robert played and blew the harmonica and he was pretty
good with that, but he wanted to play guitar.” He then related that when Robert tried to
play the guitar, he was absolutely awful, “…such a racket you never heard!…get that
guitar away from that boy” Of course, Robert was downtrodden. And in some legends,
he disappeared, and that’s where the story gets interesting.
Robert Johnson found himself wandering aimlessly. One night, he found himself
walking in the light of the moon and he came across a crossroad. A man came to the
crossroad from a different direction than Robert and the only description of that man
was “strange.” According to the folklore, the stranger took Robert’s guitar and started
playing it and after a couple of songs he returned it to the owner. The musical covenant
was over. In 1932, Robert Johnson took to the stage, and he was a different man
altogether. He played the guitar like he was born to it and had a bluesy voice that was
almost supernatural. It was then that some people started to tell how Robert Johnson
must have sold his soul to the devil to sound so good. Like his own life, his death
became a mystery. According to one account, he was playing a juke joint at the Three
Forks Store near Greenwood, MS where he was poisoned by one of his many lady
friends, or perhaps he was murdered by the store’s owner, thinking that Johnson was
too friendly with his wife. Even the place of burial for Johnson is up to debate, for there
are three different tombstones in three different cemeteries.
Who was the strange man that he met at the crossroads? Some say it was Ol’ Scratch
or Satan himself that made the deal with Johnson. Honestly, that’s lazy storytelling. If
there is a deal to be had, it’s with the devil. But perhaps we should dig deeper into the
story and the place where it supposedly happened and when it occurred. Could it be
Satan? Or perhaps it was Papa Legba or Yoruba Eshu. Legba, is an orisha, a divine
spirit of the Yoruba region of West Africa. He is a trickster god, and he is usually seen at
the crossroads to show his duality. He is also the gatekeeper that allows humanity to
communicate with the divine and the dead.
I would like to think that it was Papa Legba that Robert Johnson met at the crossroads
and it was he that he made the deal with. Divine inspiration verses cosmic karma.
Johnson made his mark in the world as one of the best blues players in existence but
there was a price to be paid. Robert Johnson became the founding member of the
infamous 27 club upon his death. For those who don’t know, the 27 Club is club of
musicians that have died prematurely, either by suicide or other nefarious deeds. The
27 Club went into the limelight with the tragic death of Kurt Cobain and Amy
Winehouse. But most don’t realize that Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and Jim Morrison are
also on this unfortunate list. Perhaps they made their own deal.
There is another kink in the story of the famous meeting at the crossroads, that of
Tommy Johnson. The story of Tommy Johnson runs parallel with Robert. Tommy meets
a stranger at the crossroads and then becomes a blues legend, but the similarity stops
there. Tommy died at the age of 60, having a heart attack while playing at a party. The
story about the crossroads wasn’t attributed to Tommy until 1971 when his brother,
LaDell Johnson, told the story to an author by the name of David Evans that was doing
a biography of the famous bluesman. This confusion is only cemented by the movie O
Brother, Where Art Thou by the Coen brothers in 2000. In the movie, the protagonists
meet a guitar player at the crossroads, and he gives his name as Tommy Johnson.
Whether you believe the story about Robert Johnson meeting the stranger at the
crossroads or chalk it up as American folklore, there is something to be said about the
crossroads as an archetype and a place of mythological significance. I have made a
study of the symbology of the crossroads, and I came across a definition that suits it
perfectly:
The Crossroads is the silent, humming pause before the story turns. It is the moment
when all futures are simultaneously possible and impossible, held in the fragile
suspense of a single decision. This archetype represents not just the choice itself, but
the sacred space of potential that precedes it.
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